The practical guide

Street wisdom

• ·Heat plan: out by 8, shade or museum 12-4, golden hours from 6. Refill bottles at public fountains (all potable).
• ·Money: cards everywhere; carry €50-100 cash. At any terminal ALWAYS choose EUR, never 'convert to USD' (costs 5-10%). Use bank-attached ATMs, never blue Euronet.
• ·Pickpockets are the only real hazard: front pockets, zipped cross-body worn forward, phone never in a back pocket. That defeats 95% of it.
• ·Anything pressed into your hand (bracelet, rose, corn) starts an aggressive sale: hands in pockets, 'no grazie,' keep walking.
• ·Coperto (€2-4 bread/cover charge) is normal and lawful. Tipping: round up or €2-5; 10% is generous.
• ·Cappuccino after lunch marks you gently as a tourist. Espresso at the bar is €1.20-1.50 standing; sitting can triple it.
• ·Churches: shoulders and knees covered, both of you, regardless of heat. Carry the scarf.
• ·Trains: high-speed tickets need no validation; seats are assigned. Ignore ticket-machine 'helpers.'
• ·Florence street numbers: red (r) for businesses, blue for homes; 13r and 13 can be 100 m apart. Trust the map pins.